May Planting

tulips 2 Do you ever have problems remembering what plants to plant when? The Natural Gardener breaks it down month by month so you will never forget again. Also, you can always count on Heinen Landscape to answer all your gardening and planting questions. This is your guide to help you with planting though the month of May.

Vegetables: Lima Beans, Snap Beans, Chard, Cucumber, Okra, Black-Eyed Peas, Peppers, Pumpkin, Malabar Spinach, New Zealand Spinach, Summer Squash, Winter Squash, Tomatillo.
Fruits: Cantaloupe, Honeydew, Watermelon.

Herbs: Anise, Basil, Bay, Catnip, Comfrey, Cumin, Fennel, Germander, Horehound, Lamb’s Ear, Lavender, Oregano, Perilla, Rosemary, Sage, Summer Savory, Winter Savory, Sorrel, Southernwood, Tansy, Tarragon, Thyme.

Annuals: Castor Bean, Celosia, Coleus, Cypress Vine, Four O’clocks, Gomphrena, Gourds, Hyacinth Bean Vine, Impatiens, Marigold, Moonflower Vine, Morning Glory Vine, Periwinkle, Sunflower, Tithonia, Zinnia and many others.

Vegetables: Chard, Cucumber, Eggplant, Malabar Spinach, New Zealand Spinach, Okra, Peppers, Summer Squash, Winter Squash, Sweet Potato slips, Tomatillo.

Fruits: Cantaloupe, Honeydew, Watermelon.

Herbs: Artemesias (Mugwort, Southernwood, Wormwood), Basil, Bay Laurel, Beebalm, Catnip, Catmint, Comfrey, Echinacea, Epazote, Lamb’s Ear, Lavender, Lemon Balm, Lemon Verbena, Mexican Mint Marigold, Mints, Oregano, Pennyroyal, Rosemary, Sage, Winter Savory, Tansy, Thyme, Yarrow.

Annuals: Ageratum, Amaranthus (Joseph’s Coat), Balsam, Begonia, Blue Daze, Celosia, Coleus, Copper Plant, Dusty Miller, Gazania, Geranium, Gomphrena, Impatiens, Marigold, Mexican Heather, Nierembergia, Penta, Periwinkle, Portulaca, Purslane, Torenia, Zinnia and many more.

Perennials: Black-Eyed Susan,Butterfly Weed, Copper Canyon Daisy, Cupheas, Coreopsis, Shasta Daisy, Ox-Eye Daisy, Four-Nerve Daisy, Daylily, Echinacea/Coneflower, Eupatoriums (including Gregg’s Mistflower), Frog Fruit, Gayfeather, Goldenrod, Horse Herb, Kniphofia, Lamb’s Ears, Lantana, Plumbago, Ruellias, Salvias, Sedum.
Grasses: Maiden Grass, Bamboo Muhly, Gulf Coast Muhly, Big Muhly, Weeping Muhly, Mexican Feather Grass, Switchgrass, Inland Sea Oats (likes the shade!), Purple Fountain Grass.

Continue spraying entire landscape with seaweed solution to strengthen them and help them deal with the heat of the summer. Regularity is important; spray at least once a month, but no more than once a week.

Topdress lawn and landscape with compost, if you haven’t done so already. No more than a half-inch over the lawn, and a half-inch to one inch in flower beds and around shrubs and trees. This gives plants the nutrients, organic matter, and microorganisms they need, and helps soil to hold water this summer. Water afterwards to settle in the compost and prevent potential burning in the heat, especially on the lawn.heinen_landscaping_3171

Apply Lady Bug Terra Tonic or Medina Soil Activator to your lawn, landscape and vegetable garden. These products stimulate microbial activity, which in turn improves the health of your plants. They also improve soil texture and permeability.


Watering is the single most important activity in the garden! It is better to water established plants deeper and less often, rather than shallowly and frequently. The exception is newly seeded areas and seedlings, which may need daily watering. Water only as needed; turn off automatic sprinkler systems when we get good rainfall. A landscape’s watering needs vary depending on weather, and hot and/or windy conditions warrant more water. Your finger is your best moisture meter. For most landscape plants and trees, it’s good to feel the soil about 5” down before watering. The best time to water is in the morning: daytime watering wastes too much precious water to evaporation.

Mulch all bare soil areas. Use three inches of mulch wherever possible to get the benefits of weed suppression, moisture retention, and cooler soil. In areas where there are stubborn weeds, get control first by pulling them or spraying Green Go natural weed killer. Then layer at least 10 sheets of newspaper on top of the soil, and wet them down. Be sure to overlap the edges by several inches to prevent those more sneaky weeds from creeping through. (Use black and white newsprint as colored inks can be toxic.) Then cover with mulch. The newspaper stays just long enough to suppress weeds, but decomposes, too. Understand that the most invasive weeds — Bermuda grass, Johnson grass, and Nutgrass– may still require even further pulling and spraying to maintain control.

Check all plants for signs of pest problems. If a pest is causing damage to your plant:
1. Identify the problem/pest correctly. You’re always welcome to bring a sample to our Info Desk and we’ll do our best to give you an accurate ID. Please be sure to put your sample of leaves and/or critters in a closed container. If it’s your lawn that’s having a problem, ask us how to bring a sample to us.
2. Choose the least toxic strategy for addressing the particular pest. Sometimes the best strategy is to do nothing except to nourish the plant. Then, if you feel you have to use a pesticide, choose the least toxic solution for that specific problem. For example, it would be overkill to use anything stronger than soapy water to kill aphids, even if it is an organic product. Sometimes, even plain water is enough. The key to controlling aphids is spraying them off the plant every three to five days. Caterpillars and grasshoppers are great examples of how we can target the pest with a very specific product. Used correctly, Bacillus thuringiensis or B.t. will control caterpillars and harm nothing else. (Remember, though, all caterpillars turn into butterflies and moths, so use Bt as little as possible.)  Nolo Bait will control grasshoppers and Mormon crickets exclusively, so it’s very safe to use against those two pests.
3. Be sure affected plants are being watered and fed appropriately. Just like us, plants tend to get “bugs” when they’re not eating right! They may need a little extra food to help them recover from their ordeal.


Top 10 Rules for Spring Gardening

Help ensure your garden’s success by heeding these dos and don’ts from HGTV.

Work the Soil When It’s Dry

Work the soil only when it’s moderately dry. Tilling, walking on, or cultivating the soil when it’s wet leads to creating something akin to adobe: the whole structure of the soil is destroyed.

Provide Drainage heinen_landscaping_3108

If your soil is too wet to work, use raised beds to enable earlier planting in the spring. The soil in raised beds dries out and warms up faster than the surrounding earth.

Check Your Seed Packet

Plant cool-season plants such as peas, onions, Swiss chard, spinach and lettuce in early spring so they mature before hot weather arrives. Delay planting warm-weather crops until you’re safely past the last spring frost and the soil has warmed sufficiently.

Know Your Zone

Whether you use USDA or Sunset zones, choose your plants not only for cold-hardiness but for heat-tolerance as well. For example, peonies don’t bloom where winters are mild.

Ease in Transplants

If you’ve started seedlings indoors, expose them gradually to the conditions they’ll have in the garden: start the pots off for only a few hours in a sunny place, then gradually increase the amount of sun exposure before installing the transplants in the garden.

Rely on Mother Nature

The best amendment for your soil is one you can make yourself: compost. If you don’t already have a compost pile, start one now.

Water Deeply

Your veggie garden will need about an inch of water a week; if enough rain hasn’t fallen, water till the top 6 inches of soil are wet. Simply wetting the soil’s surface with daily watering doesn’t reach most of the root zone and is harmful to plants. Saturate the soil around the base of tomato plants and avoid getting the foliage wet to reduce the chances of foliar diseases.

Rotate Your Crops

Grow them in different spots every year. Tomatoes are especially vulnerable to diseases that may linger in the soil or in plant residue.

heinen_landscaping_3094Synchronize Pruning Chores to Bloom Time

Prune summer-blooming shrubs, such as abelia and butterfly bush, in early spring. Buds form on the new wood that emerges the same year. Later, cutting spent flowers on your butterfly bush will produce new flowers.

The Exception to the Rule

Hydrangeas are the exception to the pruning rules for summer-flowering shrubs. Mophead hydrangeas — and others that flower in summer — need to be pruned in fall. Fall-blooming hydrangeas such as Hydrangea paniculata are pruned in late winter or early spring.


Spring Has Sprung – Are You Ready?

You promised yourself that this would be the year to transform your landscaping. And guess what? Spring is here! The time is now. Here are some excellent tips to help you begin taken directly from our landscape guide. Click here  to sign up for your free guide now. 


The three things that matter most in landscaping? Planning, planning and more planning. Having a well thought out landscape plan is the first and most important step in creating a truly beautiful landscape. Following are some points to consider before you start.

STUDY THE SUN AND WIND PATTERNS. You might be considering placing a patio on the west side of the house, however, the afternoon sun will be intense, which means dinnertime in August won’t be relaxing, just hot.

MAKE A LIST OF YOUR NEEDS AND WANTS. Are your kids in need of play space? Have you always wanted a vegetable garden? Is a patio a place where your family will actually spend time together? It’s also good to do some rough sketches of your yard with thoughts of where you might want to place things.

guide_3CONSIDER A FOCAL POINT.  A good landscape design has a focal point – or even a series of focal points. This may be a water feature, an exotic plant, a beautiful tree, or well-manicured shrubs. The point is to have something to draw your eye in and move you through the landscape.

ACCENTUATE PROPERTY FEATURES. Landscape, from an artistic perspective, can accentuate the best attributes of the property, as well as diminish or hide flaws. By using elevation changes, lighting, color and scale, you can redirect the eye to the more pleasing components of the property, creating a pleasing visual experience.

THINK “VARIATION.” Pacing and scale give your yard a pulled-together look. But there should be variations in color, size and shape. Paths can also lead people through the space. Repeat some elements, whether a common color, shape or type of plant, so there’s a sense of continuity. Also, try adding an element that’s different and will stand out from the landscape.

Check back soon to read about the next step in the process: TAKE INVENTORY. 


How to Manage Stormwater in Your Landscape

Check out this great article from Houzz that explains how you can manage excess water from storms and snow melting.

Snow melt and spring rains are on their way, and in many places, excessive runoff from them is a recurring springtime problem. As a homeowner, you can help by allowing water to infiltrate your property instead of sending it offsite through storm drains.Infiltration is nature’s way of slowly cleansing, storing and releasing water into the aquifer. That’s why creating a permeable landscape that absorbs stormwater is one of the best things you can do to improve water quality and reduce runoff. Learn how infiltration functions in the landscape and see some ideas for implementing it in your home garden.

Plant Milkweed to Help the Monarch

Without milkweeds, life for the monarch would not be possible. Because of urban development, monarchs are going extinct from the lack of milkweed. The butterflies need it to lay their eggs and for their caterpillars to eat.

Milkweed needs little attention and can grow in a variety of areas such as gardens, managed corridors, agricultural areas, and natural/ restored areas. They also attract other types of butterflies and bees. According to the Kansas City Star, the monarch population has doubled in the past year, but we still need that population to grow.

Bring some wildlife to your yard by planting some beautiful milkweeds. To read more about creating a habitat for monarchs, visit the Monarch Join Venture or call Heinen Landscape for some expert tips.

Winter Time Projects for the Heinen Team

Cold weather doesn’t mean down time at Heinen. We’ve been busy throughout the winter season with a variety of projects around Kansas City. from Mission to Mission Hills, Old Leawood to Overland Park, not to mention Brookside, Prairie Village, Fairway, and Roeland Park. Check out the photos below for projects we can handle – and finish – during the cold winter months. Whether it’s irrigation, retaining walls, drainage, backyard improvements, we can get the job done.

Spring is just around the corner, (in fact winter is halfway over as of today – Groundhogs Day!), call Heinen to book your spring project now!

Contact us today to start your project

A new paved walkway in Crestwood PicMonkey Collage22

Grading for sod

Irrigation installation

PicMonkey Collage33

Stormwater drain installation


Make the Most of Your Landscaping During Cold Winter Months

It’s that time of year where trees have lost their leaves and flowers stop growing. But that doesn’t mean our gardens still can’t be beautiful!  Here are a few tips to make sure you still love your garden no matter what season it is.

  1. Many decorative trees, such as dogwoods, have visually pleasing bark and texture.  So even without their leaves, they will still beautify your yard.
  2. Use your hardscape to create focal points in your yard. Lighting and deciduous elements will enhance your landscaping all year around.
  3. Trees such as crabapples and holly bushes still have berries even when it gets cold. These kinds of plants will add an elegant color against white snow.
  4. Evergreens make excellent decorative trees even in the winter. They are available in colors other than green, such as yellow and blue, and they keep their color year around.
  5. Use summer containers such as window boxes and hanging baskets. Fill these with rhododendrons and Japanese andromeda to add the perfect touch of color.

With a little ingenuity your outdoor garden can be a stunning canvas no matter what the season. Call the experts at Heinen Landscape year around to assist with your landscaping needs.

Understand Your Site Plan for a Better Landscape Design

The site plan represents the overall design for a landscape and is the primary tool used by the landscape architect to lay out the space. Landscape architects, such as the ones at Heinen, are trained to create the design in plan view as one of the first phases in the design process. This article from Houzz explains the process in greater detail.

What is a site plan? The site plan shows the proposed landscape design and includes relevant existing conditions. It shows the overall layout and placement of the major design elements. Depending on the size of your property, the site plan may be detailed enough to show paving patterns, or it may show only layout lines for paved surfaces. The drawing is created at a standard scale. The scale of the drawing depends on how large the property is and how much detail needs to be shown.


Put Your Sprinkler System To Bed: Preventive Maintenance Saves Money

Since recordings began in 1961, most of Kansas and Missouri have experienced the fall season’s first frost – the point when the temperature reaches 32 degrees Fahrenheit or below – in October. This year will likely be no different with the average date of the first frost falling between October 10 and 15 for the greater Kansas City metropolitan area. By the time you read this article, I hope you have already arranged to have your sprinkler system properly shut down. If not, may this article serve as a helpful reminder.

Every sprinkler system must be “shut down” and water drained from pipes before the ground freezes. Some homeowners elect to service their sprinkler system themselves. Others prefer to leave this maintenance to a professional irrigation specialist. Bottom line – should you leave water in the pipes or in the equipment of your system and this water sits there over winter, your pipes will likely break when the water turns to ice. Come spring, you will find a broken system, you won’t know where to look for the break and will need to call a professional to first identify the break and then fix it. These avoidable repairs can be costly.

blog_body_sprinklerIn addition, fall offers the best opportunity to do a complete check of your sprinkler system as you close it down because the system can be easily viewed in its complete operation. Now, lets review the two types of systems and how each are prepared for winter.

The first type, manual or hand-operated systems, have drain valves located along mainlines and automatic drain valves located on lateral lines. If your system was installed with this older type of technology, you will need to know where all the manual drains are located so they can be opened and allow any water in the lines to drain. However, as homes change owners from time to time, the knowledge of where the drains are located often is lost.

If you are a new owner of a manual system without this expertise, you will need to create a new “as built” of where your pipes, valves and sprinkler heads are located. If you do not have an original drawing of your system, a professional can recreate one for you. However, expect to pay a nominal fee for this drawing. For speedy and accurate service at the lowest possible cost, irrigation professionals rely on homeowners to keep accurate records of this information.

With manual systems, you’ll also want to know if each of your drainage valves were actually installed at their lowest points. If not, not all of the water will drain. This creates a risk for water freezing and pipes breaking. Again, a professional can check this for you and inspect your system when conducting a sprinkler shut down.

blog_body_sprinkler2The second method of winterization entails the use of an air compressor, connected to the mainline via a quick-coupling connection. Most modern systems accommodate this type of shut down, as it solves several problems.

  1. There is no need to record the location of manual valves buried in the yard or beds,
  2. Drains do not need to be installed at low points, ensuring system line drainage, and
  3. The system actually has the water and air blown out through the heads, giving a visual inspection of the operation of the system.

Without a doubt, make sure your system is a ‘blow out’ system or is converted to one. Should you need to convert your manual system, this will generally cost less than $200.

Blowing out an irrigation system provides preventative maintenance. When a service technician winterizes your system through this method, you can make sure all is clean and in proper operation before it is put to winter rest. You also receive the benefit of a guarantee that your lines would not hold water causing freeze damage.